Indian Elegance @ Junoon

If you are one of those people who thinks they can only enjoy greasy, over-sauced Indian food from take out containers then I have got a place for you that will change the way you think about Indian cuisine. New York has a plethora of upscale Indian restaurants to choose from, but this one was impressive not just for its food but additionally for its decor and ambiance. The likes of Tamarind, Chola and Dawat have always been on my radar, but Junoon was a new name to me so I was excited to give it a try.

From the outside it’s fairly apparent that Junoon is one of those restaurants you reserve for a special occasion or some sort of business dinner. The entrance is intimidating with its tall glass doors that give you just a glimpse into the elegant entrance way. When I walked in I thought to myself, “I am about to dine at the Daniel of Indian food.” You may feel you are entering a palace rather than a New York City Indian restaurant – and maybe it’s a little over the top – but it sets an air of occasion and the design is really something special. The design of the dining room is soothing with a lot of oranges, yellows and reds, and each table is pristine.  We sat at a table facing the open kitchen so we got to see all the action behind the scenes. Even the chefs seemed at peace and relaxed.

The menu offers tasting and a la carte menu options. The four-course tasting is $85, or $140 with wine pairing. I usually find it much more enjoyable at Indian restaurants to order for the table and share, so we opted against the tasting and did just that. To say that all the dishes on this menu were traditional might be a stretch but I think chef Vikas Khanna does an exceptional job of mixing the old with new, creating a modern Indian menu that does not sacrifice tradition. There is a variety of fish, shellfish, meat and vegetarian options to choose from. If you enjoy Indian cooking it would be hard to go through this menu and not find something appealing. The menu is also divided by the method of cooking so you know how each dish is prepared. For example, if a menu item is listed as “Handi” you know you will be getting something curried, whereas “Tawa” would signal cast-iron cooking.

The meal began with Eggplant Chaat, Lamb Boti Kebab, Daal Makhni and the Chutney Tasting. The Eggplant Chaat and Chutney Tasting were the highlights. The eggplant was thinly sliced and lightly fried with a light yogurt garnish. The tamarind and red onion gave the dish just the right kick. The chutney trio provided a taste of sweet, spicy and savory. Typically I would expect mango chutney as one of the options, but Junoon twisted the traditional with a pineapple sampling that tasted so good on my piece of Naan that I forgot my initial disappointment about the lack of mango on the table.  

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For the main courses we sampled from the meat, vegetarian and shellfish parts of the menu. The Murg Lababdar was Junoon’s version of Chicken Tikka Masala consisting of tender chunks of chicken in a spiced tomato sauce with a hint of cream. As “un-original” as the dish may be in the scheme of Indian cuisine, it remains one of my favorites and this rendition did not disappoint. We also tried the Kerala Shrimp Curry and Channa Pindi. The curried shrimp were jumbo-sized and drenched in a creamy coconut curry sauce. The last third of my plate was reserved for the Channa Pindi. This vegetarian entree consisted of stewed chickpeas in curry sauce with a number of spices, but it was really the cumin in this dish that stood out. I would recommend ordering some of the fresh breads and rice to complement the meal, particularly the specialty Naan.

The food was great, but there just was not enough of it (or so we initially thought). When the wait staff at Junoon delivers the food to your table they bring each dish out in a pot and place a portion on your plate. At least this is the case if you plan to share everything. The problem with this method is there is too much white space on the plate and the portions look puny (see the photo and you will understand) . Thank goodness we still had a little leftover in the pots to go for second helpings. In terms of the restaurant’s service, the wait staff was attentive and the meal flowed at a pleasant pace, but there were times where I felt too many people were taking care of our table. There were at least three people who took various orders from us or delivered items to our table. By the time the meal finished I was unsure whose attention I should get to pay the bill!

I was not expecting to order dessert as I cannot remember the last time I have done so at an Indian restaurant, but my sister found something that caught her eye so we went with it – Chocolate Hazelnut Gateau. This dainty but dense chocolate-hazelnut ganache cake with brandied cherries and espresso ice cream topped off the meal and gave it a sweet ending. It did not really strike me as Indian, but when it comes to dessert all it has to do is taste good as far as I am concerned.

Junoon only opened about a year ago and the praise as top Indian and overall restaurant in New York City is warranted. The design of the restaurant itself should receive accolades.  There is no stuffy air of importance given off by the staff or the clientele, which was refreshing coming from an esteemed New York City restaurant. The whole experience was quite enjoyable. So if you appreciate Indian food and have a special occasion or business event coming up, I think Junoon will serve you well should you be looking for a more eclectic destination.

Junoon, 27 W. 24th Street, NY, NY 10010. Phone: (212) 490-2100.

When To Book: Junoon accepts reservations through OpenTable. You can typically get a reservation a couple days in advance at a reasonable time. 

Celebratory Dinner @ Union Square Cafe

There are only a handful of restaurants in New York City that can really be categorized as timeless. Union Square Cafe is one of them. I recently made my second visit to the “Danny Meyer Original” to celebrate my dad’s birthday. I don’t know about all you reading, but when I am put in charge of picking the location for a special occasion of any kind I do a lot of searching. It’s not just about the restaurant’s name, how many Michelin stars or what celebrity chef happens to be behind the brilliance. When picking just the right place for a celebration such as a birthday, it is necessary to take a number of things into consideration. Here are just a few: 1) he/she who is being celebrated 2) appropriate ambience 3) cuisine and 4) menu, menu, menu. Can you guess where I put a lot of focus? Menu is key. You want breadth and depth. You want to make sure there is something on the menu that each and every guest will eat. The last point may seem easy enough, but when you come from a family where one person does not eat poultry, one whose diet excludes seafood and pork, and myself who does not eat beef, it can sometimes be difficult to please everyone’s palete.

So back to Union Square Cafe. I try to take my dad out for his birthday every year. So it’s no surprise that around three weeks prior, my mind began to stew about where this year’s festivities would take place. My first line of defense is Open Table. Even though I am disenchanted at times when a restaurant I have been looking to try is not on Open Table, the site is comprehensive enough and can prove to be quite helpful in these situations. I went through a whole slew of restaurants, keeping in mind that my dad is a modest man and prefers quality with less frills, before coming to the end of the alphabet at Union Square Cafe. Nothing really seemed to fit until then. Keep in mind, I had also recently finished reading Danny Meyer’s Setting The Table and was (and still am) completely fascinated with how he built his restaurant empire from the ground up. So, yes, I was interested in the place myself.

I had dined at Union Square Cafe once before, but I was young and could not fully remember how the menu was composed.  When I went to the website I knew I had found the right place. My grandmother would have scallops, my sister would more than likely eat the Roasted Chicken with Rice, they had Grilled Yellowtail Tuna or Crispy Soft-Shell Crab for my dad, and as for me. … I wanted to eat all the entrees except the Prime New York Strip Steak (for reasons already explained) and the Wild Sockeye Salmon (another one of my not-so-favorite foods). Now, in my family, menu due diligence does not stop at the main menu. Dessert is crucial, not an afterthought. Chocolate-Hazelnut Bread Pudding. Sold! Not only was this menu one that would appease all my family member’s paletes, but Union Square Cafe really is a seamless medley of great food, hospitable service and dining room that I would describe as understated elegance.

Now that I have covered all the logistics, on to the meal itself.  We ordered a number of starters which included: Summer Squash Salad, Snap Pea Salad  and Grilled Octopus. The salads came highly recommended from our waitress and were a delightful blend of sweet summer vegetables with vibrant colors. The grilled octopus was creative as well, but if you are not one for pungent food of the sea, it might not be the dish for you. Back to our waitress for a quick minute. She definitely made the evening much easier for the entire table. I struggled with the menu and making choices, but her interest and depth of knowledge for each dish really made that decision quite simpler. On to our main courses. I was guided toward the Grilled Lamb Chops Scotta Dita as they are a Union Square Cafe classic. If you are a fan of lamb I definitely recommend trying this dish. As suspected, my sister ordered the chicken, my grandmother’s order was a surprise and she followed my lead with the lamb chops, and dad went with the Grilled Yellowtail Tuna. So I guess I am OK at predicting what my family likes. Then it was time for dessert.

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Upon arrival I noted to the hostess that we were celebrating my dad’s birthday. I know she paid attention because when the waitress dropped the dessert menus off at our table she said, “I hear we are celebrating something special here tonight.”  We ordered the Chocolate-Hazelnut Bread Pudding and Blueberry Sugar Pie. A nice contrast from the decadence of chocolate to the sweet, crisp flavors of fruit pies in summer. The bread pudding came out with a candle and “Happy Birthday” perfectly written in chocolate sauce across the top. It was delicious. I personally enjoyed the Blueberry Sugar Pie, but there was one flaw. The pie is garnished with a scoop of Sweet Corn Ice Cream. Now this may sound interesting, and maybe even adventurous, but it definitely was not for me (and the comment card knows it!). The pie was delicious and barely needed anything extra at all. A scoop of plain vanilla would have done it justice. And to be a little more fancy, maybe some Tahitian Vanilla Bean. All in all, what really mattered is that dad enjoyed his evening with his “girls” and that we enjoyed some high quality eats.

So here’s the verdict on Union Square Cafe. As was noted at the beginning, it truly is classic New York City dining. Plain and simple – the restaurant is solid. It has a great menu with warm staff and an ambience that can fit any clientele. You can go there for celebration, a business dinner, a night when you want to treat yourself or even a date. Some in my generation (those in their mid-twenties) may not think it is trendy or “hip” enough for their tastes. It’s not Meatpacking District or the West Village after all. But don’t shy away. the quality will alleviate any worries of entering a “stuffy” or more “mature” environment. If you go and are disappointed please feel free to comment appropriately.

Union Square Cafe, 21 E. 16th Street, NY, NY 10003. Phone: (212) 243-4020

When to Book: Usually good to book a few weeks in advance, although depending on the season it can be easier to get a table the day of or a few days prior. Reservations available on OpenTable.