Category: Brunch

Mid-Week Lunching @ Jeffrey’s Grocery

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I went to Jeffrey’s Grocery for the first time last week for lunch and my guess is that it’s quite a different experience lunching there in the middle of the week versus its Sunday brunch scene. Whenever I have heard people talk about the restaurant in the past it has been in reference to a great brunch. They don’t take reservations for lunch or brunch, so there’s always the wait anxiety but it was still always on my list of places to try. Plus, I am also a fan of sister restaurants Perla and Fedora. … with the need to check out some of the others as well. I still have yet to taste Jeffrey’s Grocery’s brunch, but I did have the opportunity to sample the lunch menu with a friend of mine mid-last week. It’s pretty quiet in the restaurant around noon on a Wednesday, but my guess is most West Village spots are sparsely attended at that time. Most people are in the office and it’s not really a neighborhood known for the “power lunch.” Quiet can be refreshing in the hustle-and-bustle of New York City, so I welcomed the emptiness and space with open arms and had an enjoyable lunch.

The corner spot where Jeffrey’s Grocery resides is the perfect locale for this rustic, charming and under-stated eatery that serves quite quite tasty food. The moment you walk in (at least when I was there) you immediately get hit with a strong bakery aroma as the chef whips up a coffee cake or croissants. The smells alone will make you tummy grumble and turn your gaze immediately to the pastry portion of the menu. I have been cutting back on the sweets (or trying to at least) so I did not sample any of those items, but let me tell you it took every ounce of self-restraint to not order that sour-cream coffee cake or almond croissant. With that being said, the menu has more depth to it than baked goods alone.

Since Jeffrey’s Grocery is known for its oysters and seafood I would probably be remiss without mentioning the plentiful raw bar menu offered there. I am not, however, the gal to rely on for oyster recommendations and I also do not tend to be the one diving into a seafood tower at lunch time. I will have to go there for dinner to do a follow up review on that! We kept our order pretty simple. My friend ordered the omelette and I the ham baguette. We also split a side of avocado toast because it sounded intriguing and we both dig that green power food. I would liken it to a guacamole spread over toast so do not expect sliced avocado to come out on bread. Simple but fresh, and if you like avocado I definitely recommend getting an order for the table. The ham baguette was a well-portioned sandwich that was a little more creative than your typical French jambon beurre.The country ham was places atop a buttered, split-open french baguette topped with a soft boiled egg from which the yolk slowly seeped out from the sides. I thought it would be a messier eating adventure given the egg, but the sandwich was quite manageable and satiating. The omelette was one of spinach and gruyere, and was also served with potatoes and toast. My friend enjoyed it and I only had a small taste of the crispy potatoes which were not too shabby either.

The menu has a little bit of everything for lunch and the portions, price points and tastes will not leave you disappointed. Also, anywhere that serves breakfast items on their lunch menu gets extra points in my book. I could always go for a hearty egg dish in the middle of the day to get me through to dinner. So, if you happen to have a day off and are wandering the streets of the West Village you might want to stop in to Jeffrey’s Grocery for a casual, quality lunch I would pop into Jeffrey’s Grocery. It may be easier than snagging a brunch or dinner table during coveted weekend times. And most importantly, let me know what you think!

Jeffrey’s Grocery, 172 Waverly Place, NY, NY 10014. Phone: (646) 398-7630.  

When To Book: Jeffrey’s Grocery does not accept reservations for brunch or lunch. The restaurant will take reservations by phone for tables up to six people two weeks prior to the date you wish to dine there. I recommend making the reservation sooner rather than later. 

Michael White’s Upper East Side Newcomer: Ristorante Morini

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Trying out Michael White’s new venture on the Upper East Side was an easy decision for me given its convenient location near my apartment. I had also been anxiously awaiting the restaurant’s opening for months. Anyone who follows Michael White will be able to tell you he has been a busy man the past couple years opening anything from  a casual osteria to pizzeria and even an Italian steakhouse. While I am a huge fan of his culinary feats at Marea, I do think some of the more recent openings deviate from that which he is so good at – high quality Italian ingredients with a focus on seafood and an overall pristine dining experience. I feel like he got his focus back with this one –  Ristorante Morini – and believe it represents where White truly excels.

The space is elegant and fit for a festive occasion. Whether it’s a birthday, anniversary, business meal or other celebratory occasions Ristorante Morini should be added to the list of Upper East Side Side possibilities. The bottom floor is a slightly more casual bar room with a number of tables as well as a sophisticated bar that’s great for enjoying a pre-dinner cocktail or an alternative place for two-somes to more casually take a meal. I have written before about the wonderful experience I had eating dinner at Marea’s bar and the scene at Ristorante Morini felt very familiar. The staff was very friendly and professional. I arrived earlier than the rest of my party and sat at the bar for a hearty glass of Brunello di Montalcino while waiting. The bartender was very friendly and was kind enough to engage me in conversation for the fifteen minutes I was sitting on my own.

After my drink, everyone arrived and we were escorted upstairs to the main dining room. The decor is understated, but elegant and the tables are well spaced so you do not feel like you are having dinner with the table next to you, which always makes for a more pleasant NYC dining experience. When our waitress arrived she was clearly attentive, knowledgeable about the menu and able to offer up a number of suggestions to us based on what we each described our likes and dislikes were. As far as service is concerned, from the host at the front door to the bartender to the runners and up to the wait staff I can safely say there were no complaints from my table.

As far as the menu is concerned, there is a defining focus on seafood at Ristorante Morini. Whether you get your fix from the Crudo, the Sea Urchin Gramigna pasta, Branzino or any of the other offerings there is a definite need to test your palate with the chef’s seafood creations. The big-eye tuna and calamari appetizers were delicious. I highly recommend the tuna which is garnished with blood orange and fennel, and simply spectacular. Most of us ordered pastas for entrees and those did not disappoint either. I went with a personal favorite: Ferratini alla Carbonara. It was just the right portion size and was not overwhelmingly rich like carbonaras can be at times.The bolognese was a huge hit at the table as well. And even after all that food we were still ready to test out a couple of the dessert offerings. The semifreddo was light and took care of the chocolate fix. The pear tart was like a delicate apple tarte tatin and a good choice for those who prefer fruit-based desserts. As a final touch, you will receive a small plate of bite-sized treats with your bill of which I highly recommend indulging in the house-made caramels that very literally will melt in your mouth.

Ristorante Morini should be a neighborhood winner and attract not only local Upper East Siders, but also those who want to explore fine dining options throughout New York City. The restaurant is accessible, welcoming, pristine and serves well-prepared and distinct Italian dishes. So if you have an occasion or are just in the neighborhood and are in the mood to splurge I would definitely check out Ristorante Morini before it becomes a lot more difficult to snag a table.

Ristorante Morini, 1167 Madison Avenue, NY, NY, 10028. Phone: (212) 249-0444. 

When To Book: Ristorante Morini accepts reservations on OpenTable. It is easier to snag a table during the week and if you plan on dining here during a peak weekend time I suggest making a reservation two-to-three weeks in advance.

Farm-to-Table in the Adirondacks @ The Uptown

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I was invited up to Lake George a couple weekends ago by a very good friend of mine to spend two nights with her and her family. The last time I went up to the lake with her was probably eight years ago, but going up there always brings back memories of my childhood summers as our families used to spend a lot of time together up there. I was particularly excited about this trip because since my last visit, the family had opened a restaurant called The Uptown in the small town of Hague. Over the past couple years I had heard how the restaurant was developing and how chefs from prestigious New York City kitchens (Ex. Mas Farmhouse, Mas Grillade, Esca, etc.) were spending their summers up north to cook at the Uptown.

I was anxious to finally experience the restaurant for myself and excited to see what my friend’s family had built from the ground up. Just in case this was not clear and so you all are given full disclosure. … I am personally tied to the owner, Lauren Parlin, and have known her and her family for the past 23 years. That being said, this will be my objective view of their restaurant. … It’s a charming place with good food, however, so there will be number of positive things said.

The Uptown embodies the farm-to-table concept that has become ever more popular in the world of fine dining. Menu ingredients come from local farms both in New York and Vermont. There is even a wonderful blossoming garden out in front of the restaurant growing dill, tomatoes, squash, basil, etc. … with brightly colored Adirondack chairs on its perimeter inviting you to take a load off and stay for a while. The restaurant’s atmosphere is warm, charming and one of those places where upon walking in you feel like everyone is connected in some familial way. The dining room is intimate with no more than ten tables and a five-seater bar where you can enjoy a glass of wine or take dinner. On the topic of wine. … Lauren selects all the wines for the wine list herself, and has created a diverse sampling of grape from all regions. We even drank a bottle of white from Hungary which was new for me and quite delicious paired with the meal.

The rest of the restaurant’s decor is quirky in a very deliberate way. There is a large antique sign above the restrooms from an old Uptown Store, which I am fairly certain inspired the restaurant’s name in the first place. No two tables match, all appear to be antique and one of the tables is even being held up by four tea cups as its base. Lovely fresh cut flowers are at each table in silver tea pots of different shapes and sizes, and you receive brightly colored bandanas as napkins. Nothing is fabricated, overdone or misplaced and, overall, the ambiance complements the simple beauty of the surrounding Adirondack environment.

Moving on to the main event. … the meal itself. The Uptown’s menu is limited and changes daily based upon ingredients locally available. Lauren takes great pride in the freshly made salad preparations, so there is always a small or large salad bowl selection that’s a fresh, solid way to start your meal off on the right foot. Many of the entrees are served family style as “platters” and that seemed to be the route many diners took while there (myself included). The evening I was there the shared menu offerings were a roasted half-chicken served with English peas and glazed carrots as well as a whole roasted rabbit with grilled spring onions and pickled currants. Additionally, you can order single-person entrees of which there are three-to-four other offerings. One that I believe is offered pretty regularly and quite popular is a marinated skirt steak served with garlic mashed potatoes and summer squash. As previously mentioned, the chefs in the kitchen are highly trained from top restaurants in New York City. The quality you receive at the Uptown holds to those standards without all the over-the-top bells and whistles you receive in the New York City fine dining circle. The preparations are simple, but the flavors are  really what brings people coming back for more.

I was eating with a group of five – most of which was the Parlin family – so we ordered both the chicken and rabbit platters to share. The chicken was tender and the vegetables really did taste as though they had just been picked from the garden. It was my first time trying rabbit – an offering I found intriguing for a restaurant with such a small menu – and my initial skepticism of it being too gamey or tough for me to enjoy were quickly proven wrong. The meat was succulent and the pickled currant garnish gave the dish a subtly sweet finish. I will say, however, it was hard to get a hearty amount of meat off those bones, so be prepared to exert a little extra effort to get your full portion of rabbit. There are also a few side dishes offered each evening and the cous cous on the menu that particular night was probably the most impressive thing I ate – save for the dessert which I will get to shortly. I do not know how the kitchen made such a simple side dish taste so delicious, but if you head to the Uptown and the cous cous is still on the menu I think it’s a must-try. There was not much to it either – Israeli-style cous cous seasoned with lemon and small pieces of chopped carrot sprinkled in between. It does not sound like much, but you just have to try it to believe me.

Oh, and I almost missed the appetizer course! So, obviously, we got a large salad bowl. It consisted of mixed fresh greens with string beans, cucumbers and blueberries mixed in between. We also ordered the cheese puffs and a mix of the crostini. The cheese puffs are a quick pop ’em in your mouth indulgence. Not much to them, but you get a quick Gruyere delight. There were three types of crostini offered the evening I was there – chicken salad, ricotta-lemon and a squash toast with tomato. They are really bite-sized so do not order just one or two and think they will be easy to share. If you are a table of two, I suggest trying one of each, and if you are art of a larger table you will definitely want to double up. The squash toast on paper did not really catch my eye, but luckily Lauren’s daughter Anna added it to our order because it ended up being my favorite one. I would highly suggest ordering starters and asking for them to be brought out as separate courses even – start with the crostini and cheese puffs, and follow it up with a salad course. The reason being that all of the entrees are cooked to order and take a decent amount of time to prepare. So, if you do not order any appetizers your stomach may begin to grumble and you may feel like the service is slow as the kitchen works to prepare the meal. Spacing it out can alleviate this wait time and ease angst about not having any food on the table.

Finally, there was dessert. Lauren’s eldest daughter, Liz (maybe she would like to be more formally addressed as Elizabeth, but I’ll keep it colloquial) is at the pastry helm this summer and her desserts are really something. I have had the privilege of tasting her baked goods since I was approximately five years old, but her confections at the Uptown are no simple chocolate chip cookie. The chocolate ganache cake appeared to be the weekend’s most popular as it sold out both nights I was there. I also overheard a couple other patrons raving about it. This is no dainty piece of cake and I recommend sharing unless you have an outrageous sweet tooth and appetite. Just look at the picture. … I do not think more needs to be said there. The other two desserts offered that evening were a berry rhubarb crumble and blueberry lemon cake with cream cheese frosting. Yes, I tried them all. The cakes were my favorites, but that’s also just my general restaurant bias. The warm crumble was no less delicious so if you’re partial to fruit-based desserts it’s worth giving it a whirl.

In an area where high quality food can be hard to come by you can find solace in the fact that the Uptown has made Hague its home. It is a fit for any occasion and when you come in you will be treated like family. Most of the Parlin family can even be found dining there every weekend. … it has to be a good sign that they are willing to eat their own product week in and week out. Keep in mind the dining room is small and you should plan to make a reservation in advance. The restaurant also serves Sunday brunch and the BLT with an add-on fried egg is a must. If any of my readers make the trip up there I would love to hear any feedback!

The Uptown, 9819 Graphite Mountain Road, Hague, New York, 12836. Phone: (518) 543-6202.

When To Book: Since space is limited I would recommend booking a table a couple days in advance. If you know you will be on Lake George during a weekend it is probably prudent to book sometime during that week prior. Also, keep in mind The Uptown is not open for dinner on Sunday and closed on Monday. It is also a seasonal restaurant and open during summer months.

Colicchio’s Latest in Culinary Innovation @ The Topping Rose House

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Two weeks ago I got a taste of one of the Hampton’s newest restaurant additions – The Topping Rose House. The Topping Rose has the promise to be the new luxe destination for summer weekenders this season. It’s going to come at a price, of course. Rooms go for ~$1,000 per night, but you will be able to decompress at what looks like it will be an impressive spa and enjoy the fine dining experience that comes with a Tom Colicchio restaurant. I am going to focus on the restaurant more than the Inn itself, but they did do a great job of restoring an historic landmark in the center of Bridgehampton. From the outside, the building fits in nicely with the town’s surroundings and does not stick out as a gaudy eye sore. I think this was some people’s concern upon fist hearing about the new luxury accommodations coming to town. The inn and spa are not in full swing yet, but promise to be by the summer rush not too far off. In the meantime, people, like myself, who sometimes make the trip out there in the off-season have the privilege of testing the restaurant before it becomes impossible to get a table. Come Memorial
Day that will surely be the case.

Topping Rose is elegant but not in the same way Colicchio designed Craft or Riverpark where you enjoy a meal in a lavish dining room. The setting itself is rather quaint and it feels as though you are dining in the middle of a farmhouse. The decor is wonderful and brings forth a comfortable ambiance. The real elegance at Topping Rose lies rather in the preparation of the food. This is not my first Colicchio experience, so I know what to expect in terms of food quality and his general flare for modern and seasonally appropriate cooking. The off-summer menu was definitely reflective of winter and early spring flavors, so I will be interested to see what comes next in the summer time when Hampton tomatoes, corn and other farm-fresh goodies blossom in abundance.

The menu item of the night at our table was the Tilefish. I strayed from the other three and decided to try one of the pastas instead. Given the exuberance and high recommendation for the Tilefish, however, it’s probably worth a try. The fish is served with gold and blue potatoes, leeks and preserved lemons. Now, be careful here. When the server described the dish to us it was conveyed that there would be a puree of leeks beneath the fish and a noticeable serving of said preserved lemons. What actually came out was a delicately prepared fish with a light sauce infused with leek and lemon flavors. This was confusing to a few members of the table, who insisted they get to the bottom of this mystery and find out where the leeks and lemon resided. To their dismay, the puree was not missing just slightly misrepresented from the beginning. Nonetheless, the overall review for the fish was positive and all three people I dined with seemed to enjoy the light and flavorful dish.

I do not order pasta very often, but on this occasion I had a particular craving for a new and inventive carb creation. I tried the restaurant’s Smoked Pappardelle, which is topped with a slow poached egg. All of the pastas at Topping Rose are made in house and, in the case of the Pappardelle, they actually smoke the pasta noodles so they taste just the faintest bit of delicious smoked meats. The sauce is light and the poached egg adds a rich twist to the dish. I am glad I ordered the smaller portion because anything more may have been too decadent. For a starter, I had the Fennel, Radish, Celery and Cucumber Salad which is one of the appetizers I hope never comes off the menu. It’s great for every season and filled with fresh, refreshing greens and finished off with a light goat-yogurt herb dressing. While I enjoyed my entire meal this simple preparation was probably the highlight.

Additionally, we ordered the Fried Oysters with Braised Chili Bacon which were a nice twist the standard raw oyster. I am no huge fan of oysters myself, but these were delicious (maybe because they did not really taste like oysters!). The oysters were not over-fried and together with the bacon I could almost transport myself to a beach BBQ. Yet another good preparation for all seasons. The other must-do on the menu is checking out the side dishes. Generally side dishes are not a main attraction for any meal, but picking up the Brussel Sprouts and Roasted Cauliflower are a great way to round out a meal at Topping Rose. They are simple, but you won’t be disappointed.

 

There was, of course, some dessert to finish off the meal. By this time I was quite satisfied, but I did need something small and sweet to top me off for the evening. There were quite a few inventive ice cream flavors to sample and even though it seemed like the simple choice I went with a few scoops of coffee ice cream. There was also Lemon Meringue Tart and Apple Tarte Tatin at the table so I snagged a small taste of each. They were both great, but the Tarte Tatin beat out and would be my pick to anyone looking for a dessert suggestion. The restaurant also brings out petit fours of mini chocolate chip cookies and other small chocolate treats, so I doubled up on my ice cream and enjoyed a few of those. At the end of the meal, in true Colicchio fashion, you receive a small satchel of house made granola to remember the restaurant by as you enjoy breakfast the next morning.

Topping Rose will be a great addition to the Hampton restaurant scene, but it should definitely be reserved for a special occasion. To me, this is not a restaurant you bring the little kids on a random Friday evening or make a standing reservation at every weekend. Some people might do this, but I think it de-values the special nature of the place. It’s not gaudy, pretentious or over-the-top, but when you walk in you know you’re in for a treat so savor it that way. I would love to check out the brunch and will likely do so at some point this summer when occasion allows, so be sure to look for a Topping Rose update.

The Topping Rose House, One Bridgehampton – Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton, NY, 11932. Phone: (631) 537-0870.

When To Book: I recommend booking a table at Topping Rose as early as you can plan. Even in the off-month of March, our options for a Saturday seating were 6 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. It will be even busier in the summer so get to planning sooner rather than later.

Taking on L.A.’s Brunch Scene @ Blu Jam Cafe

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I traveled to L.A. a few weeks back for a long weekend and discovered a new brunch spot that I have been craving ever since I left. It may have been my first time stumbling into Blu Jam, but its is by no means a hidden gem to those who regularly peruse the L.A. brunch scene. I thought I was being sly by trying the restaurant on a Monday afternoon in an attempt to avoid the Saturday and Sunday rush, but this, however, backfired and did not work out as planned. Apparently everyone else wanted to brunch of their day off too!

We arrived at Blu Jam around 1 p.m. and even from a couple blocks away I could see the groups of people crowded outside the restaurant waiting for their names to be called (Note: remember we are in California and it’s actually warm there in February). If I was in New York I might have called it quits right there and then – there’s always another time to stop by and there are also usually five other options within a three block radius.  Since I am only in California every couple of months, my friends and I decided to stick out the wait since we all wanted to give the place a try.

The host alerted us it would probably be an hour wait, but I thought this was just a ploy to discourage people and turn them away. I was starving, but I was also convinced the wait would be 40 minutes at worst so we sucked it up, put our name on the list and meandered around Melrose Ave to pass the time. When we arrived back at the restaurant a short 40 minutes later I expected we would be the next threesome called. Wrong again! We were still third. A couple of tables cleared shortly after and then we were next. I could almost taste the eggs! One hour passed, then one hour and ten minutes, and just as our hopes were dwindling at the one-hour-and-twenty-minute mark, the host called our name and I immediately felt like a weight was lifted off my shoulders (and my stomach).

Normally popular restaurants with long waits feel no remorse. They are the “cool,” “trendy” and “hip” place to be so obviously you’re supposed to wait your turn before getting the opportunity to enjoy such a coveted experience. That’s what I expected from Blu Jam – a curt apology for the wait but nothing more. The restaurant, however, takes a different approach and actually finds a way to make patrons feel good even after an appetite-provoking wait time. Upon being seated there was a piping hot order of the restaurant’s signature Crispy French Toast compliments of the chef. Apparently Blu Jam believes that if you patiently wait for an inordinate amount of time you should be rewarded. I cannot remember a time where such a nice (and delicious) gesture was offered to me, and I commend the restaurant for its hospitality. Immediately sold! It also felt good not having to spend the extra $12.95 to try Blu Jam’s signature breakfast dish. The french toast is prepared with brioche toast that has been rolled in crunchy corn flakes and topped with berries, bananas and a vanilla bean sauce. I had not eaten french toast in a while, but this version was lights out. there should be an order on every table for each person to at least have a small taste.

 

In addition to the french toast Blu Jam offers a great menu of breakfast and lunch items. The best part is that breakfast is served all day seven days a week. I am a huge fan of breakfast/brunch food so any place with quality food that also offers breakfast options anytime I want gets a gold star in my book.   The menu is extensive so the decision process was daunting, but I think it’s difficult to go wrong. When we asked our server what his favorite egg dish was, he got so excited about the menu that by the time he finished running though his “top” picks we realized he had just spoken about 50 percent of the options. That did not really help narrow our decisions, but at least we knew he thought highly of the chef.

I had been eyeing the Eggwich since the beginning of our wait time so I stuck with my gut. An egg sandwich may seem generic for a place that has so many diverse choices, but this was anything but dull – over easy eggs with strips of crispy bacon, avocado, sliced tomatoes, arugula and pesto aioli on ciabatta. The sandwich was huge and I was not sure if I would even be able to pick it up, but I handled it just fine and there was not even one leaf of arugula left when I was through with it. I did not try the Norwegian Benedict or Make-Your-Own Scramble that my friends ordered, but they each seemed equally satisfied with their meals.

So what’s the verdict? Long waits can be a drag, but if you have the time on a sunny afternoon and want a hearty brunch or just have a random craving for breakfast I suggest stopping in at Blu Jam. You can probably be smarter than I was and go at off-peak times such as a random weekday or Saturday/Sunday before 11 a.m. and after 3 p.m. to expedite the process. The food was delicious and fresh with plenty of options for everyone, and the service was amicable. Even though the restaurant was extremely crowded and there continued to be a wait outside while we were dining, I did not feel hurried through our meal and the food was served within a very reasonable time frame.

Blu Jam Cafe, 7371 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA, 90046. Phone: (323) 951-9191

When to Book: Blu Jam Cafe does not take reservations and can be extremely busy during peak hours. Expect to wait thirty minutes to one hour during brunch rush hour. 

A New Twist to Pastrami on Rye @ Kutsher’s

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A few weekends ago – at the suggestion of my little sister – I tried a new brunch spot in TriBeCa that brings a new twist to traditional Jewish eats. We all know the classics – Pastrami on Rye, Latkas, Matzo Brei and Lox – but Kutsher’s gives these classics some modern flare in a comfortable and casual setting. The restaurant is new to TriBeCa’s trendy restaurant scene, and while Kutsher’s attempts to fit in with the likes of Locanda Verde, Marc Forgione, Tamarind or Nobu it does not really run at the same speed. This is the type of place you stop into when you need a break from the hustle, are craving some comfort food or need a place that’s family friendly and welcomes all ages.

I cannot remember the last time I was in a New York City restaurant with so many small children. When did TriBeCa become prime destination for families? I always thought it was just the hip place for singles and young couples. Who knew! Well, if you live in the neighborhood and have trouble finding restaurants that will welcome your strollers and a table full of toddlers, no need to look any further. Kutsher’s Sunday brunch scene was a diverse mix of such tables, as well as those filled with adults catching up with their friends and then there were the groups of twenty-somethings in desperate need of a mimosa post-Saturday night. I felt like I was somewhere in between – scoping out a relatively new restaurant while catching up with a good friend over casual brunch. The restaurant gets a little noisy with all the kids, but at least it’s lively and has a buzz to it.

Choosing what to eat was a challenge. It took the waiter a couple trips over to the table before I decided whether to go down the path of sweet or savory. The Smoked Fish Platter seemed wildly appropriate, but the Challah French Toast with fresh berries and whipped cream was also enticing. Since my taste buds were feeling quite indecisive that afternoon, I ended up making my decision based on what looked to be the best mix of sweet and savory – Matzo Brei. As I was told when I ordered it: “This is not the same kind of Matzo Brei mom used to make.” I will agree with that statement. This version is served with a “brick” of softened matzo topped with scrambled eggs and a sweet berry compote to drizzle over the top. While it would have been a little bland without the berry compote – and typically I enjoy a little maple syrup drizzle on my brei – this was one way in which Kutsher’s gets creative with what is typically a very simply prepared, traditional Jewish dish. My friend strayed away from the breakfast eats and went straight for the Pastrami on Rye. This one looked – and she said tasted – pretty authentic. The restaurant house-cures the pastrami and is not skimpy with the portions. The sandwich is sizable so bring a hearty appetite. Lastly, the pickles.  I am a huge fan of pickles and I do not much discriminate between sweet or sour – they just need to 1) taste fresh and 2) not look as though they have been sitting in a jar of pickled juice for months on end. I saw a plate of pickles at the table next to us, and even though I knew they would not be the best complement my eggs and matzo I felt inclined to test them out. The pickles were pretty darn good. It was clear they were pickled by the chefs at Kutsher’s and I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness in taste. We skipped out on dessert – which I rarely do – but don’t things such as Chocolate Babka Bread Pudding and Black and White Cookie Ice Cream Sandwich sound intriguing? Maybe next time!

Overall, I think this newcomer is worth a shot. There were plenty of other menu selections enticing enough to make me go back at some point and give them a whirl. It’s always refreshing to find a new place that thinks outside the box and creates a fresh concept. There are plenty of delis around New York City to grab a Pastrami on Rye but at Kutsher’s you will not just be met with a hearty sandwich, but also ambiance and character. The restaurant may be loud and have a lot of kids running around, but at least it welcomes the whole family (and I mean family in a very broad sense of the word) which I do not think can be said for many other “hip” New York City up-and comers.

Kutsher’s, 186 Franklin Street, NY, NY 10013. Phone: (212) 431-0606

When to Book: Kutsher’s accepts reservations on OpenTable. You can typically find availability or just walk in.

Going Casual @ Marea’s Bar

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This weekend was my second time dining at Michael White’s Marea, but this time was very different from the first. I ate at the bar. For those of you who have never been to, or heard of, Marea let me assure you this is no standard meal one would normally expect from “bar dining.” Although it was not the full Michael White special, eating dinner at the bar still had plenty of charm and I was greeted by the same great service and food experience as when I dined in Marea’s main dining room a few months back.

Although I do recommend engaging in the “proper” Marea experience – one in which you eat in the elegantly modern dining room, savor the Italian wine selection and partake in the ~$100 four-course prix fixe menu -there is definitely  reason to also consider the more relaxed dinner-at-the-bar approach as well. I did not have to make a reservation weeks in advance (decided to go three hours prior),  did not engage in a three-hour long meal, nor did I feel the urge to gorge myself in four-to-five courses. Marea is a special place and in no way will I try to discredit its fine dining appeal, but I am merely going to highlight an alternative approach to enjoying the restaurant.

Bar dining does not always draw that much appeal. Many times you end up with approximately two inches of personal space which other patrons frequently intrude as they reach over you in an attempt to get the bartender’s attention. The other problem I have found in the past is that service at bars can be spotty and the meal typically feels quite rushed. None of this was not the case at Marea. Even though every seat at the bar was full, I never felt interrupted by others anxiously standing behind waiting for a cocktail. I also never felt as though I was part of the conversation happening between the couple next to us. The setting was still personal and intimate even at the bar. As far as the service goes, the bartender could not have been more helpful. From the time we arrived he made sure to seat us promptly and throughout the meal he was just as attentive as my server during my last meal at Marea (and the restaurant generally has very good service). We never felt rushed and were merely left to enjoy the meal at whatever pace we pleased.

Marea is known for many things but the pasta dishes are famous. All of the pasta is house made and I do not think I have ever tasted pasta so delicate and well-prepared. Maybe once in Italy, but Michael White’s creations are truly one-of-a-kind. The most acclaimed item in the pasta section of the menu is the Fusilli, which is prepared with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow. Nearly anyone I have ever spoken to about the restaurant has brought up that dish at some point in the conversation. I went against the grain and ordered what optically looked to be the most simply prepared pasta on the menu – the Pansotti. The dish consists of house made ricotta ravioli topped with a fresh basil pesto sauce. Sounds plain and boring, right? Quite the contrary. Saying each morsel of pasta nearly melted in my mouth may sound cliche, but that is actually the precise way to describe it. When a chef can make even the most basic preparations taste exquisite that’s when you know he/she has created something special. I only wish the bowl could have been bigger because I now find myself four days later still craving just one more bite. Prior to the pasta, I started with the Astice appetizer which consists of a creamy burrata cheese topped with gracious chunks of lobster. Another seamless preparation and one I think should be on most people’s tables at Marea. Even though burrata comes from the heavier cheese family of mozzarella, this rendition was light and the lobster was a hearty complement.

By the time the appetizer and main courses were complete I was ready to call it quits – my appetite was more than satisfied. I could not stop though because earlier I spotted a dessert calling my name from across the bar – Strati Di Cioccolato. There are a number of tempting options on the dessert menu, but as a lover of chocolate this was the natural fit. The chocolate crema and salted caramel mousse were encased on either side by thin layers of solid chocolate and sprinkled with a coffee crumble to give it a little crunch. The dollop of Fior Di Latte ice cream (literal translation – “flower of milk”) on the side was a very simple and refreshing finishing touch.

Even in the most casual setting Marea did not fail to impress. After three courses and two (very) generous pours of Brunello Di Montalcino I was ready for a good night’s sleep.  It continues to amaze me how even at one of New York City’s most highly rated restaurants it felt natural to immediately fall into a state of relaxation and decompress after a long week. There was no pretension or anything completely over-the-top. … except maybe the bill that came at the end. It won’t be the cheapest dinner you have ever had, but if you find yourself wanting a last-minute splurge, and are within striking distance of Columbus Circle, do not overlook the bar room and take a peek into Marea. Hopefully your visit will be as pleasant as mine.

Marea, 240 Central Park South, NY, NY 10019. Phone: (212) 582-5100

When To Book: Marea accepts reservations on OpenTable but it can be difficult to get reservations, especially at peak times. I would strongly suggest trying to book well in advance. Walking in and sitting at the bar is always an option, just be prepared to have a little bit of a wait if it’s a busy night. At 8 p.m. on a Friday I only had to wait ten minutes, but that could have been a little lucky!

My Restaurant Crush With ABC Kitchen

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I went to ABC Kitchen for lunch recently and am approaching double-digit territory in terms of how many times I have returned to the restaurant.  I am not one to typically  repeat restaurant visits this often since there is so much ground to cover in NYC, but there is something about this Jean Georges staple that keeps me coming back for more. At this point, I have sampled most of the dishes and have seen many iterations of the menu. They keep the classics and surprise every time with a few new selections from which to choose. I can say with a high degree of confidence that it is difficult to go wrong there. I usually find it extremely tough to come out and say I have “favorite” restaurants in this City because of the plethora of offerings, but ABC Kitchen has been a steady stand-by for the past two years and it goes beyond just the good food.

Forget the food for a minute and let’s talk about the decor, ambiance and overall atmosphere of the restaurant. In my opinion, this is half of ABC Kitchen’s allure. Unlike many other restaurants by celebrity chefs, Jean Georges’  ABC Kitchen does a great job creating an unpretentious, inviting and relaxing atmosphere in this Flatiron endeavor. Yes, you will probably need to think ahead, call at the exact time the reservation line opens (or be logged in to OpenTable) and reserve a table 30 days forward to ensure you can enjoy such a place, but it’s worth it . You’ll see why once you’ve eaten there once. … And if you don’t please feel free to leave angry comments below this post. The dining room was nicely designed and feels as though you are eating in an elegant farmhouse. I am pretty sure a decent amount of decor comes from neighboring ABC Carpet and Home. The walls are white lined with black-and-white photographs and wooden beams protrude from the ceiling. The white tables are adorn with small but poignant details of decor such as: dainty glass vases of fresh flowers placed atop the table or the display of sea salt so delicately dispersed in a white seashell.  The staff members brighten the room with their colorful plaid button-down flannels, and I have yet to be served by someone who was not friendly or  engaging. When I first started dining here, there was a young man working as a waiter who was simply a doll. He was well-versed in the menu, could give me a suggestion and never be wrong, and was overall very amiable. He was my server – by request – for my first five visits to ABC Kitchen. He always remembered me and treated the table extremely well. I would go so far as to say that he can be credited with a part of the reason I continue to return to ABC Kitchen. It’s too bad he left last year to pursue other interests, but I have returned since and continue to have great customer service experiences.

The whole mantra at ABC Kitchen is “local, organic, home” and the restaurant embodies all three of these characteristics. It’s not super hokey or “granola” either. Just good food with the most locally and organically grown ingredients as possible in a homey dining room. Now that I have gone on a bit about the overall feel of the restaurant we can move onto the menu. I have now sampled a majority of each menu offered at ABC Kitchen – brunch, lunch and dinner. Instead of giving a very descriptive rundown of every meal consumed there I decided to provide my own ABC Kitchen “must try” list. Starting off with brunch, the French Toast is delicious and the Eggs Benedict is a solid version of this classic brunch fare. Lunch/Dinner items of note are as follows: The Crab Toast with Lemon Aioli, Roasted Carrot and Avocado Salad, Pretzel Dusted Calamari, Clam Pizza, Wood-Oven Roasted Maine Lobster, Akaushi Cheeseburger (I have not sampled this but my sister gave her stamp of approval and I trust her judgment), Chocolate Cake with Toasted Marshmallow Icing and the Ice Cream Sundae. These are my time-tested favorites from each menu, but there’s plenty more to choose from.  I would, however, suggest having at least one of the above-mentioned choices make it to your table.  Additionally, if you are there for lunch there is a tiny secret treat I would highly recommend asking your server about – Chocolate Ganache Cake Pops. I only recently discovered these hidden gems, but they are delicious and a perfect way to end a meal if you’re not in the mood for a heavy dessert. It continues to baffle me that these have not made it on to the main dessert menu, but just nudge your server and say you know they exist. … I am sure one or two little “pops” will readily appear at your table.  To supplement the food, don’t leave without trying a cocktail or fresh juice. The Ginger Margarita and Vermont Gold Vodka Thyme Lemonade are killer (in the best possible sense of the word).

I’ve been to ABC Kitchen for a whole host of occasions – girls brunch, a lunch to catch up with my sister, birthday celebrations, a date and work function. You can really make the restaurant fit any event. I make up different excuses to go there all the time. So if you have yet to test the waters here, pick an occasion (30 days forward) and enjoy a meal at ABC Kitchen for yourself. I do not think you’ll be disappointed for taking my advice on this one.

ABC Kitchen, 35 E. 18th Street, NY, NY, 10003. Phone: (212) 475-5829.

When To Book: ABC Kitchen accepts reservations on OpenTable and by phone. For dinner I highly suggest planning in advance and reserving a table 30 days prior. You may get lucky and a spot could open up last minute, but that’s often not the case. Brunch/Lunch can be a little less planned depending on timing. The restaurant is also open to walk-ins and the bar is first-come first-serve. 

Uptown and Downtown Italian with Spigolo and L’Artusi

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Sorry for being “off the grid” there for a couple of weeks. Between travel and my day job, not much time to get to some good new places. I have, however, been to two Italian spots recently that are worth telling you all about. For those of you uptown, Spigolo might be for you and then for the downtown crowd L’Artusi should be a name that rings a bell. Two completely different restaurants and atmosphere, but while I am on the Italian theme it makes sense to take note of both at the same time.

Spigolo first. I recently went there for a small birthday dinner and was pleasantly surprised with the quality of food. I have lived uptown for ~12 years now and when Spigolo opened in 2005 I remember there being a decent amount of hype and it being very difficult to get a table. I never got myself there, but finally decided to take the dive as it is one of the few “known” Upper East Side restaurants that I have not yet hit. I went there for a birthday, but I would only suggest that if you are looking for an intimate experience. Spigolo is probably better served for couples looking for a quiet meal or a nice spot to take someone on a date. It’s a small dining room with a rustic feel and one of those places that will warm you right up on a cold winter night (there will be plenty of those coming up soon). I was impressed by quality and presentation of each dish, and would put the restaurant in the category of a small gem nestled in the chaos that is Second Avenue on the Upper East Side. Anyone who has walked up Second Avenue in the 80s and 90s recently would feel sorry for the businesses that have been disrupted for years by what seems to be never-ending subway construction. Spigolo doesn’t appear to have missed a beat.

For starters, the regular and eggplant meatballs are a must. I did not eat any of the regular meatballs but judging by how quickly that plate went from full to empty leads me to believe they were pretty darn good. I enjoyed the eggplant meatballs, which were topped with a sweet tomato sauce that was very clearly hand crafted and quite tasty. Definitely try some pastas. There was a special Carbonara on the menu the evening I was there and if I were in charge of creating Spigolo’s menu I would put this on permanently. The Garganelli with Sweet Fennel Sausage Ragu was a richer dish and akin to a hearty Bolognese. For those trying to avoid carb overload there are some other meat and fish options to choose from. I tried the Chicken Scarpariello which was served with sausage, cherry tomatoes and a creamy polenta. The chicken was juicy and tender with the accompaniments fitting in just right. If you were tempted to try the sides the baby brussels sprouts with pecans are the way to go. In terms of the meal’s finale, look no further than the Sticky Toffee Bread Pudding. It’s definitely sweet, sticky and overly indulgent but worth sharing with the table and having a taste, or two. … or maybe even three.

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Moving from the Upper East Side to the West Village where you’ll find another Italian gem in L’Artusi. I’ve been to L’Artusi twice now and  enjoy it in part because it’s one of those places that is good for almost anything. Dinner with friends, a nice date, a place to go for a business-related meal, celebrations, you name it. The restaurant is casual but elegant and the design of the dining room is very well done. At first glance, the menu may look simple and maybe even somewhat limiting, but start ordering and you’ll soon realize it’s fine just the way it is. Unless you are hoarder of pasta, I would highly suggest ordering everything to share for the table. That way you cover more ground with the menu and everyone gets to try a variety of dishes. A strategic way to go about tackling the menu is to pick your targets from each section: Crudo, Verdura, Pasta, Pesce and Carne.

I skip the Crudo because raw fish isn’t my “thing,” but others in my party enjoyed the Hamachi Tartare and Dayboat Scallops. Verdura is more my speed and the Market Salad gets my stamp of approval. It’s light and fresh, topped with walnuts, feta and a yogurt dressing. The big hit at the table, however, were the Roasted Mushrooms with pancetta, fried egg and Ricotta Salata. Everyone liked them so much we had to order another. We also ordered L’Artusi’s special appetizer that evening which was a house made ricotta cheese served with toasts and preserves. It literally melts in your mouth and if it happens to be on the menu when you dine there I would recommend giving it a try. The Pasta section comes next and the relieving thing about  L’Artusi is that there is some sense of portion control, so even if you were to eat one plate for yourself there would (or at least should be) some room left in your stomach to try other dishes that come to the table.  I truly do not think you can go wrong here, but here are my two cents. The Bucatini, Orecchiette and Spagetti were my three favorites, in that order (and take note. … we had a lot of food on that table). The Bucatini is prepared like an Amatriciana with tomato, pancetta and pecorino. The Orecchiette fits into my motto that pretty much anything tastes better when topped with a good sweet sausage as this dish is prepared with salumi, sausage and pecorino in a light sauce. Very flavorful. Finally, the Spaghetti. This is probably the simplest of the pasta selections, but in this case simple is quite good. The dish is served with a sauce of garlic, parmesan and chilis so that even with the simplest of preparations the pasta has a little kick to it. Pesce was next and our server recommended the Striped Bass and Roasted Cod. I chose the bass which was a light follow-up to the bowls of pasta previously consumed and served with tomato, cannellini beans and kale. I skipped Carne, but two of my colleagues ordered the Pork Chop and Hangar Steak. Judging by the little left on their plate by the end of the course I would venture to say they enjoyed it. Even after all of this some of us still had an inch of room left for dessert. For a seasonal treat, I recommend the Pumpkin Tiramisu. The other two we ordered were good, but a serious second and third place to the pumpkin. The Hazelnut Chocolate Torta serves the chocolate lover well and the Olive Oil Cake is best for those looking to try something new and different. I will say I was initially drawn away from the Olive Oil Cake, but after trying it I would say it’s worth a taste.

There you have it. Two short reviews on Italian restaurants located at opposite ends of Manhattan. There are hundreds of choices when it comes to this cuisine and I won’t even pretend that these are No.1 and No.2, but they are each solid meals and should give you a little direction if you are ever on the Upper East Side or down in the West Village and start to have that craving for a good pasta with good atmosphere on the side.

Spigolo, 1561 Second Avenue, NY, NY 10028. Phone: (212) 744-1100

When To Book: Spigolo accepts reservations on OpenTable. If you are planning to dine with them on a Friday or Saturday night I would suggest thinking a couple weeks in advance to get a preferred seating time. It’s easier with tables of two since the restaurant is so small. 

L’Artusi, 228 W. 10th Street, NY, NY, 10014. Phone: (212) 255-5757

When To Book:  L’Artusi accepts reservations on OpenTable. It can be difficult to get a weekend table at L’Artusi so booking three-to-four weeks in advance for a Saturday or Sunday reservation would be advised. The middle of the week and Sundays generally have more availability so you should have better luck checking a few days in advance. 

Going Dutch for Brunch

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Now that the summer is over and everyone has migrated back to the City weekend Brunch season is back en vogue. Brunch is a favorite weekend activity for many and there is never a shortage of places to go for a hearty omelette served with a side of Bloody Mary or Mimosa. I happen to be a huge fan of the New York City Brunch scene and take advantage of the options whenever I can. This weekend I grabbed a girlfriend and headed down to SoHo for a Saturday rendezvous at the Dutch.

Brunch can be very tricky at times. Some places take reservations and others force you to be brave showing up as a walk-in where you always run the risk of an hour-long wait. …sometimes even longer! I get a bit nervous about showing up to brunch spots without a reservation for this exact reason. I fear the long wait where my begins stomach grumble and my head pounds from the night before, as I simultaneously watch my Saturday afternoon drift away. This weekend I decided to take the plunge and go for the no-reservation approach since the Dutch had been on my bucket list for quite some time. The worst thing that could have happened was needing to wait for an hour and going shopping in the heart of SoHo to kill time. Sounds terrible, right? Just kidding! When I arrived at the Dutch, however, I was pleasantly surprised with no wait and being seated immediately.

Before diving into the food, I must first take a brief moment to note the restaurant’s interior design.  Roman + Williams takes credit for designing the space and should take great comfort in the work done. I am no decorator or anything, but I can always appreciate a well-done restaurant when it is clear that the details were selected with care.  I was impressed by its casual but sleek design that is most reminiscent of a neighborhood bistro. The wooden tables and black leather banquets give it a polished feel, while the white brick walls and light fixtures give the dining room a soft brightness. The bar is welcoming and well-designed, and even though the dining room was bustling it did not feel over-run by people and the tables were appropriately spaced apart. I want to say it reminded me most of The Smith Midtown or Schiller’s, but I do not even think that comparison does the Dutch justice. Bottom line – the place was laid out very well and kudos to the “master” of design.

One key to a brunch menu is the ability to balance the sweet with savory and breakfast with lunch items. I frequently become frustrated with restaurants that claim to serve brunch and end up being posers with a menu that is 85% lunch items and may offer one egg dish, some granola or something silly like that. The name brunch itself derives equally from breakfast and lunch, so the menu should be reflective as such. I was pleased to see the Dutch’s menu balances the meal well and my only problem was getting through the offerings to make any sort of decision. I happened to be in the mood for some sweet and savory, which presented my first ordering conflict. Do I go with the famous fried chicken, almond french toast or fried eggs? The fried chicken looked amazing but I would probably leave needing a nap and the french toast was just a little more sweet than I was ready for at that point in time. The waiter came to our table twice before my friend and I were ready to decide, but we finally found a happy medium between all our cravings. We would share something sweet and then order two savory main dishes, both of the breakfast variety.

The Dutch offers items from “Kierin’s Pastry Board” and that was going to satisfy the sweet craving. We then asked our waiter to recommend two savory menu items and thank goodness he happened to pick the two already on our radar.  We went with the Two Fried Eggs, Hominy Grits, Chorizo, Guajillo Salsa and the Poached Eggs, Cheddar Biscuit, Country Ham and Chipotle. For those in the mood for more of a boozie brunch (my head couldn’t handle it that afternoon) the Dutch offers some tempting cocktail choices to complement the meal. My friend was ready to start the day so she ordered a Bloody Mary. The glass filled with tomato juice and vodka looked more like a piece of art when it came to the table than a simple cocktail (see the photo).

The first thing to arrive at the table was our plate of pastries. There were three options on the menu- a hazelnut scone, curry sugar donut and a poppy-seed muffin – that we obviously had some initial trouble choosing from. Our waiter suggested we order all three as each was well worth the sampling. Since he went on to tell us the portions were small and it would not overwhelm the meal we heeded the advice and waved in all the pastries. The portions were not all that mini, but I accepted the false advertising after my first bite because these pastries were definitely worth the extra caloric intake. The muffin was probably my favorite as lemony, poppy-seed treats usually win me over. Then it was time for the eggs.  The fried eggs were placed in front of me, but we shared both dishes. The dish came with two sunny-side up eggs that were placed atop the creamy grits with a generous portion of chorizo on the side. It was a nice twist between southern home cooking and a Mexican breakfast, with some awesome flavor. The poached eggs were the Dutch’s rendition of classic Eggs Benedict. Two delicately poached eggs on a savory cheddar biscuit topped with a chipotle hollandaise-like sauce. Flavor was not lacking in these eggs either and the chipotle added an extra kick.

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I think our waiter steered us well overall and neither my friend nor I was disappointed with the Brunch experience. The one other menu item he claimed to be a “must try” was the Almond French Toast with Bananas Foster, but as mentioned before I was not ready for that much sugar. I am saving that for another time along with the fried chicken (because yes, I will go back). Which leads me to my next note. From the hostess to our waiter and the bus boys, the staff was warm and friendly. Our waiter never seemed frustrated by our indecision and seemed almost giddy that we called upon his opinion on the menu. He was energetic and helpful, which only enhanced the pleasant environment. I will have to go back to test out the consistency, but overall a good report card on service here.

The Dutch would be a good choice for any sort of occasion. In terms of brunch, it’s a great venue to catch up with one friend, bring a group of friends or even take someone on a date. My next visit will be for dinner (if I can score a table), but I would imagine the same applies, I will even go out on a limb and say it would be a really fun, lively place to go for a business outing. It’s upscale and pristine, but not stuffy and over-the-top and the menu choices will satisfy many people’s diverse taste. The restaurant is also open late so if you get the late night craving for good eats the Dutch will be there to serve you.

The Dutch, 131 Sullivan Street, NY, NY 10012. Phone: (212) 677-6200.

When To Book: The Dutch accepts reservations by phone up to 30 days in advance and also welcomes walk-ins. Getting a table for dinner can be difficult and I would highly suggest calling those 30 days prior. Otherwise you can try your luck walking in, but be prepared for a wait.