Category: Restaurant Reviews

Rushed @ red bar brasserie

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I find it increasingly difficult to have a hassle-free meal in the Hamptons during the high summer months. But since I enjoy dining out, I get the itch sometimes to go to an old standby or the newest en vogue out there. This past weekend I went with my family to red bar brasserie in South Hampton for an early dinner before making the trek back to the City. It was quick reminder of why I usually just eat a fresh meal at home between Memorial Day and Labor Day.

Now I have been here a number of times before and typically have a very nice experience, but this time something was off. I thought we were off to a great start when the host recognized someone in my party and said, “Oh! I did not know you were on this reservation or I would have seated you at your regular table.” That should be the golden ticket to good service at a high-end restaurant, right? I thought so too.

Everything was going well until the appetizers were on the table. We ordered the Bruschetta with Artichoke, Piquillo Pepper, Black Garlic and House-Made Lemon-Farmers Cheese for the table and some people ordered the special Tuscan Tomato Soup with Bell Peppers and Croutons. The Bruschetta was tasty even though the other ingredients overpowered the artichoke to the point you could barely taste it. And we clearly did not order enough because there were only three small toasts for the five of us, but that’s our on problem! But here’s where the evening went downhill. One person still had about a quarter of her soup left in the bowl – and she was still hunched over the plate as though she wanted to continue eating – when the bus boy arrived at our table trying to remove the dish. She politely told him she wanted to continue enjoying the appetizer and he disappeared. … for approximately 60 seconds.

So, I guess we were moving onto the main course. I ordered the Truffled Chicken Breast with Mushroom Risotto and French Beans, which I highly recommend. I could smell the truffle aroma wafting in the air as the waiter placed the rest of the plates on the table before mine. And who doesn’t like truffles! The chicken was tender and under the crispy skin was a thin layer of truffles giving the dish that extra “umph!” The risotto was rich – as all risotto should be – and the green beans were there to round out the course and serve as an attempt to be healthy. But as I was finishing my meal the vendetta against our table resurfaced.

The same person who ordered the soup ordered a simple Endive Salad, and before she could eat half of it the bus boy arrived trying to remover her plate. I understand the need for table turnover, but it was 6 p.m. on a Sunday. Seeing as there was not a long line of people waiting to get in I do not think it would have killed the staff to let us enjoy a peaceful family meal. We each enjoyed our food, but could not figure out why they wanted to get us out of there so quickly. Did we smell bad? The table behind us did not appear to have the same issues. After each bottle of wine they all consumed (I think we counted three, but who knows) the noise level in the restaurant grew two octaves. They were having a grand ‘ole time and lasted far longer than us.

We decided not to order dessert for fear the Profiteroles would be gone before we could scrape the chocolate sauce from our plates. We paid the bill, the host tried his friendly charm yet again and we went on our way. As I said, I have been to red bar a number of times. And I usually leave satisfied. I like the brasserie feel with the wicker chairs and white table clothes, and the intimate dining room setting. The dining room fills up quickly and there is usually a nice, unpretentious liveliness about the place. The food is consistently good, but my experience with the service this go around was just particularly notable (and in case you didn’t get the memo, it wasn’t in a good way). I am also a patron at the owner’s other restaurants, Beacon and Fresno, and would hope the next time I dine at one of them I feel just a tad more wanted. If you head over to red bar, let me know your thoughts. I would like to go back at some point!

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red bar brasserie, 210 Hampton Road, Southampton, NY 11968. Phone: (631) 283- 0704.

When to Book: red bar brasserie takes reservations on OpenTable and you can typically get a reservation a week in advance. During the peak season of summer, you may want to give yourself an extra week to make your reservation if you want prime-time weekend spots.

The Next Great Meal Goes International: Ireland

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Welcome to the first international restaurant series from The Next Great Meal. I spent a week in Ireland, mostly in the outskirts of Dublin in County Wicklow. Below you will get a brief taste of the highlights. Maybe you won’t make it to Ireland in the very near future, but should you find yourself in the country’s capital or the luscious green countryside here are some places to keep in mind!

Gordon Ramsay @ Powerscourt

This restaurant by the well-known Gordon Ramsay is situated in the Ritz Carlton hotel on the Powerscourt Estate in County Wicklow, Ireland. The setting is beautiful as you get panoramic views of Sugar Loaf mountain in the distance. There is a lovely terrace for when the weather in Ireland permits you to enjoy a peaceful dinner outdoors. As I am sure many of you have experienced, hotel dining can be very hit-or-miss. Some hotels know how to do it right, but others struggle to create ambiance and character, so while the food could be exceptional the restaurant ends up lacking in energy. With Gordon Ramsay’s Powerscourt location I felt more the latter. The wait staff, however, was friendly and I found this was mostly the case in Ireland. They also knew how to make the customer happy. After a fly had flown into my glass of wine for the second time there was no charge on the bill. Now that’s what I’m talking about! The menu composed of fresh, local ingredients from the region which is something I always appreciate.  I started with a beet salad with fresh, local goat cheese followed by a diverse lamb medley which included tenderloin, crispy bacon-like slices and sweetbreads garnished with baby artichoke and cherry tomatoes. The main course was delicate, light and succulent. I did, however, pass on the sweetbreads. The best way I know how to describe what came next is as a chocolate bomb (see the picture. … you’ll understand). All I can say is it was pretty darn good. Then the meal was over. And while I did enjoy the food and it was clearly of high caliber, I was really hoping for character and Ramsay has still yet to find it here.

The Box Tree

This was a special place we visited in County Wicklow. It’s situated in a small town called Stepaside Village and couldn’t be more charming. With a seating area outside lined with pots of bright yellow flowers, and a charming wine bar next door, I was able to tell from the entrance that this was going to be a serene evening.  The Box Tree does receive accolades for being and Eamonn O’Reilly establishment, who is one of the acclaimed chefs in Ireland. O’Reilly also owns a successful restaurant in Dublin, One Pico, that I did not have the time to try but looked appealing as well.  We were seated in a banquet in front of the semi-open kitchen. Above our heads, the walls were lined with all sorts of wine bottles organized and encased by glass. There were a number of creative dishes on the menu, such as the Poached Egg and Grilled Asparagus appetizer that came with Kellys Black Pudding, Capers and Bacon and Grain Mustard Hollandaise or the Butter Roasted Chicken Breast with Spinach, Mushroom Ravioli, Crispy Wing and Sweetcorn Cream. I ordered the latter and started with the Ardsallagh Goats Cheese and Pickled Beetroot salad. I almost did not get the salad because the server initially brought out the wrong goat cheese appetizer, but just as I was sticking my fork in the phyllo-wrapped cheese (and don’t get me wrong. … I was confused about the dish, but was going to go along with it anyway) he realized his mistake and pulled it out of my grasp. Oops! When I finally did get the correct salad, it looked more like a work of art than something I should be eating. There were three statues of soft, coiled goat cheese sandwiched between two thinly sliced beets, garnished with greens and candied walnuts. Something about the goat cheese in Ireland (and the butter) is just a notch above the rest, but this rendition in particular was quite tasty. It was light, flavorful and very fresh. Then came the (first) rich part of the meal. … the chicken. From the description, I was not quite sure what to expect from all the ingredients but they surprisingly worked very well. The spinach lay at the bottom with the one large mushroom ravioli placed on top, which was surrounded by the buttered chicken breast and crispy baby chicken wings. Then the sweetcorn cream to finish it off. That was home style cooking in the most gourmet way possible. I really enjoyed this dish. I think the chef did a very good job of making each piece of the meal work together. The chicken wings were definitely a creative touch. The finish touch wasn’t disappointing either. The chocolate walnut brownie bites with dollops of chocolate mousse and a scoop of Bailey’s ice cream were a great way to the end the meal. It may sound overwhelming, but the brownies were dainty and the mousse not overpowering, so it actually was quite a nice way to end a filling meal. Overall, great place with character and innovative cuisine. The location is a little out-of-the-way so it’s not a touristy spot which gave it a lot of charm. The service is friendly and accommodating. We heard that some have had problems with it being spotty and slow, but we just had the appetizer incident! 

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Campo De Fiori

Campo De Fiori is a quaint Italian restaurant in the coastal town of Bray. Bray is one of the larger towns near where I stayed and the most vivacious. There was an Italian festival going on that week and the night we were in town the entire town seemed to be in the streets cheering on the local Olympic heroes during the opening ceremonies. It was a fun scene. Campo De Fiori is situated right across from the water so you can get some picturesque views if seated at the right table. When we walked in it seemed like a one-man show. The manager was acting as hostess then waiter then bus boy and anything else in between. He was running it all. The whole experience felt quite intimate and felt closer to a trattoria in Italy than one in the middle of Ireland. And like most people do at Italian restaurants we ordered a bit too much. It was nothing fancy, but the simple ingredients worked and made the meal enjoyable. The Antipasto appetizers are a must. You cannot find many places that really do antipasto well in the U.S. (if you know of some please let me know) and this one had all the right stuff. Just make sure if you’re a table for two to get the small one. I got the Black Sole as my entrée, which was very simply prepared fish with boiled potatoes and vegetables. We also got the Mixed Grilled Fish which is probably the best way to get a sampling of all the fish offerings. You’re in a coastal town. … you should really order some fish. There was one snafu with a prawn that wasn’t fully cooked, but otherwise we enjoyed the meal and there wasn’t much left over on our plates. If you haven’t figured this out yet, I am a sucker for sweets but I wasn’t impressed by my chocolate mousse. Worth stopping by this Italian gem if you’re visiting Bray. And if you are not in the mood for dinner, there is a wine bar next door.

Fern House

The Fern House is rustic cafe attached to the Kilmacanogue location of the well-known Avoca stores. After you’re done picking up your hand-woven blankets, socks and scarves you can take a breather at this lovely cafe for a leisurely breakfast or lunch. The servers here were some of the most friendly I had during the trip. The setting was peaceful and it almost felt like you were in a massive green house with lush gardens surrounding you. The space is enchanting and the food tasted farmhouse fresh. I had a lovely crab and apple salad that was a refreshing summer treat. We also ordered a vegetable antipasto plate (another great antipasto!) that had an assortment of marinated vegetables, falafel, cheeses and more. The only disappointment was my Smarties cookie that was a little stale. But the other baked goods looked delicious, so I will give them the benefit of the doubt.

The Winding Stair

From the outside you wouldn’t think much of this Dublin charmer. The yellow building blends with the others on the city block, and it’s hard to spot from afar unless you look way up and see the intricate letters that read “The Winding Stair.”  The second-story restaurant sits above a book shop in the center of Dublin and looks over the river. The wooden loft space is simple, cozy and warm. The menu  has plenty of options and I would love to come back and try some more. I ordered a special lamb shank they were serving that night that was tender and fell off the bone. Everyone in the restaurant seemed to be enjoying themselves and I was having a good time observing the food that landed on their tables. It all looked just as delicious as mine tasted. The desserts were the real kicker. They are known for the Bread and Butter Pudding with Whiskey Sauce. It really does melt in your mouth. You shouldn’t leave without at least having a bite. Another phenomenal dessert was the Apple and Rhubarb Crumble. It’s actually very hard for me to describe either of these desserts because I won’t be able to do them justice. The skillet crumble was mouth-watering good and so perfectly warmed that the cinnamon ice cream formed a river throughout the dish. I would venture to say that if you venture to Ireland there is a high likelihood Dublin would be part of the trip. If this is the case and you have some time, this restaurant is worth a trip. I hear their lunch is great as well. It’s high quality with not a lot of bells and whistles in an inviting and relaxed environment. I could have sat there with a bottle of wine for another hour enjoying the setting. Too bad we had to drive back to County Wicklow!

Those four restaurants represent the highlights of my culinary adventures in Ireland. There were some other places I went worth making quick mention of as well. The Wicklow Heather (Glendalough), The Powerscourt Arms (Enniskerry), McGill’s (Powerscourt) and Elephant and Castle (Dublin. … and yes, the sister restaurant to the one in the West Village). If you want more information on any of the restaurants I have highlighted feel free to leave a comment or email thenextgreatmeal@gmail.com. Contrary to what I expected from its former reputation, Ireland cuisine consists of more than meat, potatoes and Guinness pints. I enjoyed some great meals here and, for the most part, at a reasonable price.

Thursday Tapas @ Tertulia

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I don’t know about all of you, but in my group of friends tapas/small plates reign as the preferred way to eat out. Probably because small plates work for larger groups and everyone can have a little taste of everything. But don’t think just because it’s shared plates that your meal will be any smaller than if you went for Italian and ordered a big plate of pasta. Those “small” nibbles of everything on the table can end up being quite filling, so don’t kid yourself and think you’re in for a “light” meal.  Nonetheless, tapas restaurants can be fun with groups and quite tasty. My most recent sampling of the cuisine was in the West Village at Tertulia .

Tertulia is one of the newer restaurants to enter the tapas scene in New York City (opened in 2011). And of course it’s got a cool vibe, it’s in the West Village after all! Walking by you might not think twice from the simple exterior, but once you walk in the door the constant buzz will tell you immediately there’s something vibrant about this place. I went with two girl friends a couple of weeks ago. I knew I had to pick somewhere fun and interesting because one of them had just moved to New York from Los Angeles, and she too has a knack for inventive cuisine. I arrived early and found myself a seat at the bar. The restaurant does not take reservations for dinner, and because it was a Thursday night I knew I should put our name down early.

While waiting I ordered a glass of sangria from the friendly bartender. He went over to this large wine barrel that had a number of spouts sticking out at the bottom (I later found out this was used for all their house wines). As an aesthetic touch I thought it looked pretty cool. He poured the red wine into a glass, went to mixing and then scooped out citrus fruits that had been marinated in liquor from a glass jar placed on top of the bar. (Note:If you end up going to the restaurant, you must report back as to whether or not the sangria fruit is still in this large jar at the very rightmost part of the bar. There was quite the debate between the bartender and one of the wait staff as to whether it looked “strange” to have all these fruits sitting out on the bar. I didn’t think so, but interested to know what ended up being the fate for those fruits.)

After the sangria, my friends arrived and we were seated at our table. There are two options for seating. There are a number of high-topped communal tables where they squeeze you in like sardines next to a number of other groups or you may be seated at wooden-topped dining room tables, which line the perimeter of the main room. There are also some tables in the bar room, which may be a way to avoid some of the noise and bumping elbows -It can get a bit noisy in the restaurant once it fills in. We ended up at one of the communal tables and even though I felt a little too close  with my neighbors, and could hear most of their conversation, the energy of the place was definitely a nice pick-me-up after a long day at work.

As I have emphasized before, a diverse and wide-ranging menu is key. Tertulia does a good job of composing a menu that combines creativity with tradition. There are a number of inventive tapas dishes coupled with the old standbys such as: Pan Con Tomate, Jamon Serrano or traditional Spanish Tortilla. With menus like this I usually find it helpful to call upon the waiter/waitress to explain the more popular or personal favorite items listed. Otherwise there is far too much to choose from. After our waitress’ assist, and a bit of our own input, we decided on a number of dishes: Jamon Serrano (18-month cured Serrano ham), Tosta Mejillones (Grilled mussels, fennel jam, raisins, all I oli), Surtido De Quesos Atresenales (Selection of three cheeses), Nuestra Tortilla Espanola (Classic tortilla: egg, potato, onion and olive oil), Pimientos De Padron (Fried Padron peppers with lots of sea salt), Cogollos (Gem lettuce, asparagus, crispy quinoa, Meyer lemon, quail eggs), Pan Con Tomate (Toasted bread rubbed with tomato) and a special Trout dish the restaurant had prepared that evening. The mussels definitely stood out. Each one was prepared on a delicate piece of toast that was covered with the sweet fennel jam and raisins, topped off by the savory mussels. It was a shame there were only enough for each of us to have one! I am also a fan of the classics, so the Pan Con Tomate, Jamon Serrano and Padron peppers brought back memories to my travels in Spain. I wasn’t crazy about the trout as it tasted just a bit too much like it came right out of the sea. Some people enjoy their fish that way, but I prefer less “fishiness.” My two friends seemed to enjoy it. 

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To round off the meal we ordered the Torta De Arandanos (Mutti’s blueberry boy bait, lemon, creme fraiche ice-cream) and the Tarta de Chocolate (Dark chocolate and coffee ganache, almond crust and sea salt). Usually I don’t get enthused by Spanish desserts, but there were some intriguing ones to choose from and my sweet tooth could not say no. The chocolate ganache was dense, heavy and rich. Everything a chocolate lover desires from dessert. The sea salt was a nice touch. Even though I love chocolate, the blueberry boy bait won my favor that night. For those who are unfamiliar with “boy bait” (because I was) I would liken it to a moist blueberry pound cake. The lemon and creme fraiche ice-cream were great additives, and the sweet refreshing taste made me forget, for just a moment, that it was one of the hottest, most humid evenings of the summer.

Trust me, I am fully aware the West Village has a lot to offer in the way of dining options. Tertulia caught my attention for its unassuming nature, rustic ambience and lively atmosphere. If you don’t like noise or feeling cramped, I would not recommend this restaurant for you. But if that does not bother you, it’s worth making the stop by for some tapas with friends. Plus, the price is right and you won’t feel like you’ve got an empty wallet afterward.  Try the mussels, the blueberry boy bait, go with some classics and definitely indulge yourself and order a pitcher of sangria. Ciao!

Tertulia, 359 Sixth Avenue, NY, NY 10014. Phone: (212) 559-9909.

When To Book: Tertulia does not take reservations for dinner, except for groups of six or more up to two weeks prior. Reservations for brunch and lunch can be made by phone.

Celebratory Dinner @ Union Square Cafe

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There are only a handful of restaurants in New York City that can really be categorized as timeless. Union Square Cafe is one of them. I recently made my second visit to the “Danny Meyer Original” to celebrate my dad’s birthday. I don’t know about all you reading, but when I am put in charge of picking the location for a special occasion of any kind I do a lot of searching. It’s not just about the restaurant’s name, how many Michelin stars or what celebrity chef happens to be behind the brilliance. When picking just the right place for a celebration such as a birthday, it is necessary to take a number of things into consideration. Here are just a few: 1) he/she who is being celebrated 2) appropriate ambience 3) cuisine and 4) menu, menu, menu. Can you guess where I put a lot of focus? Menu is key. You want breadth and depth. You want to make sure there is something on the menu that each and every guest will eat. The last point may seem easy enough, but when you come from a family where one person does not eat poultry, one whose diet excludes seafood and pork, and myself who does not eat beef, it can sometimes be difficult to please everyone’s palete.

So back to Union Square Cafe. I try to take my dad out for his birthday every year. So it’s no surprise that around three weeks prior, my mind began to stew about where this year’s festivities would take place. My first line of defense is Open Table. Even though I am disenchanted at times when a restaurant I have been looking to try is not on Open Table, the site is comprehensive enough and can prove to be quite helpful in these situations. I went through a whole slew of restaurants, keeping in mind that my dad is a modest man and prefers quality with less frills, before coming to the end of the alphabet at Union Square Cafe. Nothing really seemed to fit until then. Keep in mind, I had also recently finished reading Danny Meyer’s Setting The Table and was (and still am) completely fascinated with how he built his restaurant empire from the ground up. So, yes, I was interested in the place myself.

I had dined at Union Square Cafe once before, but I was young and could not fully remember how the menu was composed.  When I went to the website I knew I had found the right place. My grandmother would have scallops, my sister would more than likely eat the Roasted Chicken with Rice, they had Grilled Yellowtail Tuna or Crispy Soft-Shell Crab for my dad, and as for me. … I wanted to eat all the entrees except the Prime New York Strip Steak (for reasons already explained) and the Wild Sockeye Salmon (another one of my not-so-favorite foods). Now, in my family, menu due diligence does not stop at the main menu. Dessert is crucial, not an afterthought. Chocolate-Hazelnut Bread Pudding. Sold! Not only was this menu one that would appease all my family member’s paletes, but Union Square Cafe really is a seamless medley of great food, hospitable service and dining room that I would describe as understated elegance.

Now that I have covered all the logistics, on to the meal itself.  We ordered a number of starters which included: Summer Squash Salad, Snap Pea Salad  and Grilled Octopus. The salads came highly recommended from our waitress and were a delightful blend of sweet summer vegetables with vibrant colors. The grilled octopus was creative as well, but if you are not one for pungent food of the sea, it might not be the dish for you. Back to our waitress for a quick minute. She definitely made the evening much easier for the entire table. I struggled with the menu and making choices, but her interest and depth of knowledge for each dish really made that decision quite simpler. On to our main courses. I was guided toward the Grilled Lamb Chops Scotta Dita as they are a Union Square Cafe classic. If you are a fan of lamb I definitely recommend trying this dish. As suspected, my sister ordered the chicken, my grandmother’s order was a surprise and she followed my lead with the lamb chops, and dad went with the Grilled Yellowtail Tuna. So I guess I am OK at predicting what my family likes. Then it was time for dessert.

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Upon arrival I noted to the hostess that we were celebrating my dad’s birthday. I know she paid attention because when the waitress dropped the dessert menus off at our table she said, “I hear we are celebrating something special here tonight.”  We ordered the Chocolate-Hazelnut Bread Pudding and Blueberry Sugar Pie. A nice contrast from the decadence of chocolate to the sweet, crisp flavors of fruit pies in summer. The bread pudding came out with a candle and “Happy Birthday” perfectly written in chocolate sauce across the top. It was delicious. I personally enjoyed the Blueberry Sugar Pie, but there was one flaw. The pie is garnished with a scoop of Sweet Corn Ice Cream. Now this may sound interesting, and maybe even adventurous, but it definitely was not for me (and the comment card knows it!). The pie was delicious and barely needed anything extra at all. A scoop of plain vanilla would have done it justice. And to be a little more fancy, maybe some Tahitian Vanilla Bean. All in all, what really mattered is that dad enjoyed his evening with his “girls” and that we enjoyed some high quality eats.

So here’s the verdict on Union Square Cafe. As was noted at the beginning, it truly is classic New York City dining. Plain and simple – the restaurant is solid. It has a great menu with warm staff and an ambience that can fit any clientele. You can go there for celebration, a business dinner, a night when you want to treat yourself or even a date. Some in my generation (those in their mid-twenties) may not think it is trendy or “hip” enough for their tastes. It’s not Meatpacking District or the West Village after all. But don’t shy away. the quality will alleviate any worries of entering a “stuffy” or more “mature” environment. If you go and are disappointed please feel free to comment appropriately.

Union Square Cafe, 21 E. 16th Street, NY, NY 10003. Phone: (212) 243-4020

When to Book: Usually good to book a few weeks in advance, although depending on the season it can be easier to get a table the day of or a few days prior. Reservations available on OpenTable.